San Felipe, a coastal town on the Gulf of California in the Mexican state of Baja California, has a rich and layered past that spans indigenous habitation, Spanish exploration, humble fishing camps and modern tourism. Its story is one of transformation — from a remote bay visited by early explorers to a destination for sun, sea and off-road desert adventures.
Indigenous Beginnings
Before Europeans arrived, the land around San Felipe was used by the Kiliwa people, among other indigenous groups. According to historical sources, the Kiliwa lived in the Sierra de San Pedro Mártir and made seasonal excursions to the bay (now San Felipe) to fish, gather shellfish and supplement their inland desert diet. Wikipedia+1 Their way of life reflected the harsh, arid environment of the peninsula and the strong link between land and sea.
Early European Exploration
The earliest European records date from 1535, when Hernán Cortés sent an expedition that reached the Baja Peninsula on 3 May 1535. Wikipedia+1 In that period, the bay was charted by explorers such as Francisco de Ulloa (September 1535) and later by Hernando de Alarcón and Domingo Castillo (1536), who mapped parts of the peninsula. Wikipedia
In 1721 the Jesuit missionary Pedro de Ugarte (brother of Juan de Ugarte) sailed into the bay and gave it a name, and the area later became known as San Felipe de Jesús. Wikipedia+1 In 1766, the Austrian Jesuit Wenceslaus Linck became the first European to reach the bay by land. Wikipedia+1
All these events set the stage for the bay’s eventual settlement and strategic importance in a region that had been remote and challenging for colonisers.
Early Settlement and the Fishing Era
Permanent settlement around San Felipe began much later — around 1910–1915 — when fisheries for species such as totoaba and shrimp were established. Wikipedia+1 Prior to that, the place had only seasonal or occasional camps, little infrastructure and a tiny population.
By 1925 the first official fishing camps were established under the administration of Abelardo L. Rodríguez (then territorial governor) and he organised the first sub-delegation and school to serve the budding community. Kiddle+1
In the late 1920s San Felipe had only about 100 permanent residents. When the 1940 census was taken, the population was listed as 287. Kiddle Over time, the economy depended heavily on fishing and shrimping — the sea and coast provided livelihood and defined the early identity of the town.
Infrastructure, Tourism and Growth
The transformation of San Felipe into a tourist destination began in earnest in the mid-20th century. In 1947, the Compañía Industrial del Golfo de Cortés bought land to build an international tourist centre. Wikipedia+1 The highway from Mexicali to San Felipe was paved starting in 1948 and completed by 1951, making the town more accessible. Kiddle+1
Hotels began to appear: the 15-room Hotel Augies opened around that time (later known under other names). In the 1950s and 1960s more motels and campsites were built. The arrival of electricity (1963) and piped water (1967) further laid the foundation for growth. Kiddle+1
In the 1970s San Felipe developed further — government buildings, restaurants, the main boulevard, sewage systems, a small airport and the first four-star hotel opened. Wikipedia+1
Today tourism is the main driver of the economy, followed by shrimping and fishing. The town draws visitors from the U.S. and Canada, especially for its warm Gulf waters, beaches, desert-meets-sea scenery, and off-road racing events. Wikipedia+1
Geography & Special Features
San Felipe lies about 3 metres above sea level and is famous for huge tidal variations — at low tide the water can recede as much as 2 km (because of the nearby Colorado River delta). Wikipedia Adjacent natural areas such as the “Valle de los Gigantes” (home to huge cardón cacti) add to the region’s appeal. Wikipedia
These geographic features — warm shallow seas, desert landscapes, dramatic tides — make San Felipe unique among Baja coastal towns, giving it character beyond simply “beach vacation.”
Municipal Changes and Modern Developments
Until recently, San Felipe was part of the municipality of Mexicali. But after years of local demand, on 1 January 2022 the state government of Baja California created the new municipality of San Felipe, making it the 7th municipality of the state. Wikipedia+1
This municipal status opens the door for greater local autonomy, infrastructure investment and more targeted tourism and development policies. The town continues to develop with resorts, rental homes, RV parks, and services catering to international visitors. mysanfelipevacation.com
Challenges and Future Outlook
While San Felipe has grown significantly, it still faces challenges common to frontier towns: providing full infrastructure, maintaining sustainable tourism, balancing local fishing economies with visitor services, and preserving the unique environment (sea, desert, coast).
Further, its remote coastal location and reliance on seasonal tourism mean that economic shocks, climate issues or infrastructure deficits can have outsized impact. But the foundation is strong — with paved highways, clear visitor markets, growing accommodation and a unique natural environment, San Felipe is poised for continued growth.
Why San Felipe Matters
San Felipe is more than just another beach town. It represents a frontier meeting point between desert and sea, indigenous and European histories, fishing camp and resort community. Its journey from an uninhabited bay to a tourist gateway shows how places can transform when geography, economy and culture align.
For visitors, it offers something different: warm Gulf waters, large tides, desert landscapes, a relaxed pace and a connection to the layered history of Baja California. For locals and investors, it presents possibilities: rentals, tourism services, conservation, and lifestyle change.
Conclusion
The story of San Felipe is the story of adaptation, connection and place. From the Kiliwa people gathering shellfish in the bay, to Jesuit missionaries naming and mapping the land, to fishers building camps in the early 20th century, and finally to modern travellers seeking sun and adventure — the arc of San Felipe’s history is wide and interesting.
As it enters its municipal era and continues to welcome visitors from across North America, San Felipe remains a reminder that great places often emerge from unexpected corners — where the sea meets the desert, and where history is etched into the tides, the rocks and the horizon.
If you’re ever in Baja California, make time to explore San Felipe: not just for the beach, but for the story behind the sand.